The Third Clown

A guest entry by Petter Martin Skjeldrum

Petter Martin Skjeldrum

Early may, I got a call from my good friend Henrik. He informed me that Brahawi Expeditions was closing in on a crucial, and perhaps the most difficult, stage of their nine month voyage. As a master knots man, they needed my aid on board, and they begged me to join the crew. I did not have the heart to turn down my colleague, and promptly accepted the offer.

The Captain (Peter) and crew (Sebastian and Henrik) gave me the warmest of greetings, and I could sense by their enthusiasm that they were greatly relieved to finally have a master knots-man on board. After enlisting another crewmember in Cavtat (one that the Captain became very fond of surprisingly fast), we enjoyed a fine meal.

The first day on our journey was demanding. No wind made the crew strange and edgy. I believe they resent the sound of the engine. The Captain, as the salty sailor he is, suggested that I could entertain the crew with some granny knots. He threw me a beer and a wink, and the crew was all the merrier. This would later become a routine; the captain, or sometimes the crew, handing me a beer, and then we would all laugh and cheer at my knots. We were all in high spirits/aquavit!

We could not have asked for better weather in the following days. Sunshine and blue skies and waters took us to the Zlatan wine ranks, were we were had reservations for wine tasting, which in the local tongue means drinking wine to a meal. Fascinating! Nevertheless, we enjoyed ourselves in beautiful surroundings.

From left: Peter, Petter Martin, Henrik.

As we pressed on in the treacherous waters, the Captain informed us that we would restock in Hvar. We were dangerously low on food and beverages, and I believe that Peter feared a mutiny if we were to run out. Hvar, known for the first public theater in all of Europe opened in 1612, is truly a beautiful place. The Island and city is also known for its inhabitants. A tribe of Brits who call themselves “Yacht Week”, rule the seas in the vicinity. One night we came very close to one of their rituals when we were anchored in a bay not far from Hvar, but we managed to stay low and not attract their unwanted attention. After a restless night of listening to their barbaric cries, we woke up to see the tribe on their way.

We quickly set sail for our final destination, with dangerous wind speeds up to ten knots. I suspected that the crew had grown reckless for some time now, and they proved it when they allowed me to take the helm. Despite almost giving Henrik a heart attack, all went well, and tears were shed when the sails were lowered for the last time in the expedition. The fine day of sailing, and safe journey, was celebrated with a feast beyond compare at the finest restaurant in Primosten, and later at the finest Irish pub in Primosten. Forgetting that we had to prepare and scrub CoCo the following day was perhaps unwise, but worth it.

Finally, I would like to congratulate the Peter, Henrik and Sebastian of S/Y CoCo and Brahawi expeditions for completing their impressive journey, and to thank them for being the best hosts a master knots-man (landlubber) could ask for. In addition to getting a new, red skin color, and a beautiful week on CoCo, the crew and my co-guest Elise, actually managed to teach me a thing or two about sailing. So thank you once again.

Petter “Knuta” Martin Skjeldrum AKA Skipsklovn III

Petter Martin at the helm. Peter is paying close attention.

Welcome Back to the Caribbean

Sorry for not keeping you updated lately, dear fans. That happens when the Internet is something quite illusive and we are trying our best to hide away from civilisation.

After our rather terrible encounter with the U.S. Customs and Border Protection Agency we felt like we needed to get away from it all for a while. Therefore, in Ponce, we stacked up on a lot of provisions and anchored in what on the map seemed like somewhere that nobody would be. We were right! Among the mangroves on the southern coast of Puerto Rico we found calm water and a seabed that excellently clung to our anchor. Fortune smiled upon us ever so sweetly… We even caught some fish on the way there, which enables us to hide away for two more days than expected.

This anchorage proved an apt opportunity to explore the mangroves. Mangroves are a strange kind of trees or shrubbery that appear to be getting by on saline water. That is very interesting! Saline water usually kills everything… They actually have these long tendrils hanging down from the tops of their foliage which suck the sea water up, cleaning it on the way. On the down side, mangroves tend to leave a lot of plant material in the sea, which makes the water a bit filthy. The crew of S/Y CoCo set out on an expedition to learn more about the mangrove. Regrettably, of the three of us that embarked on this expedition, only three made it back.

Hardcore exploration

The rest of us also wore hats.

After spending some of our most relaxing days at this place, we eventually decided that it was time to head back to a place inhabited by something more than plants. Or perhaps we were running out of beer. I don’t really remember. Whatever the reason, we sooner or later set sail for the island of Vieques. Here we have been able to do some long overdue maintenance, like put new strings on the guitar.

Dinghy dock in Vieques.

Tourists

Victim of a Hurricane?

Esperanza, Vieques.

Captain Peter on a typical Viequan street corner.

Family Reunion

A guest letter from the Hartmann family.

Norwegians have their “hyttebok”; a kind of hard copy blog for the cabin, where guests describe their stay and express their admiration of the host, the cabin and the surroundings.
For the impatient of you who are only looking for the conclusion: Peter, Sebastian and Henrik are a clever and very nice team, S/Y CoCo is a great and comfortable sailing yacht, and the Caribbean ocean and the Dutch Antilles are beautiful! For those further interested, we have made a more thorough report below.

Our trip to the ABC Islands (minus A) as guest crew aboard S/Y was our first visit to the Caribbean. Ever! We brought with us a long list of expectations gathered from dreamy pictures of this holiday destination (and some brown cheese, of course). Was it possible to meet all the high expectations?
We flew directly to Curaçao with KLM from Amsterdam, ready to spend one week finding out how it really is to live aboard a sailing boat in Caribbean sea. Arriving in the afternoon after a cab ride, we quickly embarked on S/Y CoCo, which was anchored in a bay called Spanish Water. Ten minutes later we jumped into the sea. 28 degree Celsius. Check!

The unnaturally tanned crew served chilled, colourful drinks with rum, and started preparations for a grand dinner. Having read the previous blog entries, we had high expectations, and the crew did not disappoint. In addition to perfectly grilled beef and chicken, we also got fresh tuna caught by another group of Norwegians anchored next to us. Check!

Joyful reunion of mother and son. From left: Henrik, Anne.

The crew was eager to return to Bonaire, so the next day was spent in the capitol of Curaçao, Willemstad, to carry out the paper work with the immigration and custom offices. This also also gave us a chance to do some sightseeing. The city was charming with colourful houses in Dutch style. Check! Many of the locals spoke Dutch, in addition to English, though the local language remains a mystery. We quickly learned how to order the horrendously small bottles of Polar, the local very-easy-to-drink beer. By now we were set for some real sailing.

The passage to Bonaire took seven hours with steady wind. Check! The crew demonstrated a high level of team cooperation. Upon arrival an available buoy was calling – just outside Karel’s bar and restaurant – entertainment with a Caribbean rhythm every night. Here was also the most clearest sea water we had ever seen. Check!

Outside Karel’s. From left: Anne, Carl. S/Y CoCo in the background to the right.

Sebastian and Peter went on two days of diving, while the Hartmann family made their own plans. With rented bikes we travelled swiftly across the flat landscapes containing cacti, flamingos, geckos, and parrots, towards the coolest and relaxing beach and surf club. Almost perfect, unfortunately missing the wind for windsurfing. This was the first day in three years without enough wind for windsurfing on Bonaire, according to local sources.

Andreas upon arrival in Jibe City.

The next day we went on an expedition with the S/Y CoCo tender to Klein Bonaire experiencing beautiful white beaches and amazing snorkelling with colourful fish and corals. Check!
The three days at Bonaire has been filled with much beauty. The slow pace of life and the friendly locals at the island contributed in making the days nice and relaxing. Eventually it was time for another day at sea; sailing in light breeze back to Curaçao and the Spanish Water. On the way there we caught fish, resulting in grilled barracuda for dinner the last evening. Check!!

The CoCo Tender beached on Klein Bonaire. From left: Henrik, Andreas.

In complete honesty, and in order to make our reporting trustworthy we have to mention some of the drawbacks as well: warm nights, a few Mosquitos, sunburns, seasickness, and karaoke (as bad as everywhere else). However, compared to the ups, the lows are negligible.

Anne on Klein Bonaire.

Our dreams and expectations have been fulfilled, and we feel lucky to have been invited to join CoCo for a week. Peter, Sebastian and Henrik have taken care of us and made their outmost to make our stay fantastic. You have succeeded. CHECK!!

A Letter from Our Number One Fan

Guest entry by Elise Møvik.

Ever since the guys left home to go on this trip, I’ve been looking forward to visiting them just after the Atlantic crossing. I landed on St. Lucia the 15th of December, five days after the guys had crossed the finish line and just in time to join the cheering crowd when the crew learned that CoCo won the ARC’s cruising class A.

Peter and Elise on the Beach in Rodney Bay, St. Lucia.

I arrived at Hewanorra International Airport . On my customs sheet I wrote down one thing – caramel cheese from Norway. I found myself to get surprisingly nervous when we had to write down if we were bringing any food in to the country, so I figured I’d just write it down, although it felt a bit weird to think of the eccentric, brown, Norwegian cheese as something to clear through customs.

Dinghy ride ashore.

When I arrived in Marigot Bay a few hours later, I immediately recognised someone that I had been waiting to see for about three months. Peter showed me down to the bay, where CoCo was moored just next to a charming restaurant. This beautiful little bay, with its palm trees and blue waters, astonished me. We went inside the boat where I was greeted by Sebastian and Henrik who was working on a failing water pump. I would later learn that one cannot be anything but incredibly impressed by the skills shown by these three guys, when it comes to fixing whatever problem that presents itself on board. I would also learn that Peter has the coolest friends, and that this crew works well together. Henrik and Sebastian is also two guys that has patience enough to let me learn and join in when we are sailing around, and the two of them plus Peter has taught me a lot about sailing. I can hardly wait until the next sailing vacation! After a nice dinner in Marigot Bay we sailed north to Rodney Bay, where the price-giving ceremony and celebrations would take place. The guys met up with some of the crews they knew from the ARC and I was introduced to some truly wonderful people. The whole night different people came up to the guys, congratulating them and telling them how impressed they were. I couldn’t do anything but smile from ear to ear the whole night, as I was so insanely proud of the CoCo crew. It was really cool to be there.

Elise showed tremendous skill as a deckhand and managed to perform her duties with exceptional grace.

After having spent the first week on St. Lucia, we were looking forward to setting sails towards Bequia, where we would spend Christmas. Taking a morning bath in the warm ocean and sunbathing on the deck didn’t exactly give us the Christmas spirit like were all use to. Nevertheless, I found it very exciting to experience something new, and one couldn’t pick a better place, or greater people to spend this time with away from home. We spent Christmas Eve on a beach with our feet in the sand, and were served delicious food, wine and even GLØGG, as the owner of the restaurant was Swedish. After Christmas, we set sail for towards Tobago Cays. I have never seen such clear water and white sand in my life. Here we snorkelled with turtles, and we also saw a huge stingray and some beautiful fish near the great coral reefs. Additionally, Peter prepared a feast for us in the evening, with fresh lobsters on the grill. I almost had to pinch my arm to realise that I got to have this amazing experience.

The mandatory Wallilabou coffin pose.

After having spent the second week around the Grenadines, we made our way back to St. Lucia to pick up a friend of Sebastian, Hanna, who would be joining us for the next twelve days. After quickly getting to know Hanna – she is one lovely, sociable and outgoing person! – CoCo set its course towards Martinique to celebrate the coming new year. Here we got to see a great fireworks show, we went to a concert in town and had a delightful three course dinner with the crew of Spinnvill at what is most likely the slowest restaurant in town. The spirit on board was as always very high, and after celebrating New Year’s we were ready to see some more of Martinique. For almost two more weeks we sailed around seeing bays like Anse Noire and Grande Anse d’Arlet. Here we snorkelled, drank beer, laughed and simply enjoyed life. As visitors, Hanna and I discussed how we never wanted to leave this paradise, as it is just incredible to be here together with the guys. When the time came for Hanna to leave for home, I realised that I was leaving in a week myself. Never has a vacation gone faster, even if this one actually was five weeks long. This last week included having ice cream in Wallilabou bay, where some of the scenes from the Pirates of the Caribbean films were shot. And as a big sucker for these things, I naturally loved this place, and I do believe the guys also enjoyed it. We then went back to Bequia, where we enjoyed sundowners out of holed-out pineapples. From there we headed back to St. Lucia where I went on a final adventure with Peter, zip-lining through the jungle. Needless to say, this was a cool experience to finish off this trip with, and I now feel that I have been through everything that I could’ve hope for on this five week voyage in the Caribbean.

Docked in Wallilabou. Elise looks excited.

All thanks to Sebastian, Henrik and Peter for putting such an effort into every day, sailing to the best bays, telling thrilling stories, playing music to set the good mood, making the best-ever-tasting drinks for our own happy hour on board, and in general making me feel as part of the crew. This vacation has truly been the most magnificent and enjoyable one yet! I wish the guys all the best, and a fantastic trip further on. Safe sailing! Elise.

The underwater ballet.

CoCo Open

The crew overlooking hole 13. From left: Henrik, Sebastian and Peter.

After a week of maintenance and repair work the crew of S/Y CoCo decided it was time for a break. Sebastian had heard some rumours that one of the best golf courses in the world was located on Gran Canaria and the other crew members quickly picked up on the idea of golfing as a leisure activity. It was decided that we should try out El Cortijo Golf Course, a 15 minute drive from Las Palmas. Making reservations proved difficult as no phone number was listed on El Cortijo’s website, but we eventually found one after a bit of googling.  Green fee and club hire for three persons came to € 410, which the crew found somewhat steep. Nevertheless, a four and a half hour game and 18 holes were thoroughly enjoyed.

Straight in the cup.

Perfect chip.

Watch out for divots!

Measure both by Stableford points and number of strokes, Henrik was the eminent winner with 32 points and 115 strokes. Peter achieved a point score of 29, while Sebastian managed 21. It should be pointed out that Sebastian was allocated ten fewer strokes than the two other players, because of his handicap of 28, while the Henrik and Peter are green card players (no handicap). Therefore, the number of strokes paint a slightly different picture: Sebastian used 119 while Peter used 121. Conclusively, Sebastian is not as good as his handicap entails and the reason why Peter and Henrik still only have green cards is elusive.